"Water is life's matter and matrix, mother and medium. There is no life without water"
My art lovers and followers would recall that I was painting my series on 'Nostalgia Rajasthan' last year as we were in the middle of pandemic and missed traveling. The natural flow of my research and art work veered towards the Stepwells as Rajasthan is mostly arid and dry region of India. I also happened to visit the ruins of Hampi last year at Karnataka, India. This world-famous UNESCO heritage site had some beautiful stepwells inside the fort and is called ‘the Pushkarani.’ The architectural marvel of these beautiful stepwells enchanted me and I wanted to learn more about them. To my amazement and wonder I discovered that there are still such beautiful structures dotted all over the countryside of India, some even in our capital Delhi. I marveled at these beautiful structures during our trips to Rajasthan. India’s incomparable stepwells is an apt description of this architectural marvel and is one of India’s most unusual contributions to architecture. In a nutshell, a stepwell is a well that has steps leading down to the water table.
(At the Pushkarni, Hampi with friend and artist Lata Aggarwal)
Study of the unique Geometrical structures of these Stepwells
My study of these wells and my sketches have revealed that geometry formation from bottom-up (lowest level to the earth surface) generates the fractal geometry and repetition of the same fractals after unform intervals. As per Geometry the Fractal architecture of these Stepwells is classified as Linear, Circular, Rectangular or Square.
The depth of the stepwells indirectly indicates the depth of Water table at the time of its construction, which usually varies between 6 m to 30 m. Some of them have carvings of idols and cultural motifs. It is interesting to note that all the stepwells constructed over a period of time exhibit a similar type of architectural plan and longitudinal cross-sectional design.
(Stepwells at Ghumtachi vihar at Talegaon Dabhade, near Pune)
The main purpose of my study is to highlight the level of water conservation and rain harvesting in Ancient India, much before the western world considered this to be a problem. These stepwells also housed small temples, community halls where there was an amalgamation of culture between the traveling folks and the locals and changing rooms or resting rooms. These provided natural airconditioned rooms for the weary travelers. They are one of India’s most unusual contributions to architecture and it is an amazing experience to look deep into the bowels of the Earth sometimes eight storeys below and descend into these incredible stepwells. The simplicity of the architecture of the stepwells, which is an engineering marvel, is difficult to visualize till one actually visits these stepwells. This is what captured my attention and provided me an idea to build a complete series of art works on this concept. Unfortunately, this entire category of architecture has slipped off the grid and they have been replaced by modern water pipes, storage tanks and others and people have forgotten these unique structures. I feel it is important to understand the concept and purpose of these stepwells and hope to aid in their conservation and upkeep through this art work.
‘Droughts, floods and crop losses are causing climate migration… We need local climate resilience measures like Water Harvesting”
Treasure Hunting the Incredible Stepwells of India
After dabbling in my Art studio for a few months to set the initial tempo for this Art project and completing few of my canvases, I decided to go treasure hunting for them in my state of Maharashtra. I googled the work of Rohan Kale who has meticulously mapped and helped in the preservation and cleaning of more than 1,650 stepwells in Maharashtra and contacted him. He graciously shared the locations of few of the Stepwells near my city.
So, the day for this adventure arrived and I along with my trusted driver cum man Friday and my precious camera, we set forth to search out these incredible structures. Our first destination was the Stepwells at Balleshwar temple at Jejuri, very near to the Ashtavinayaka temple at Morgaon. This temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, is built near the town of Jejuri and we had to navigate some muddy patch of land past sugarcane fields and a village school to reach this ancient stepwell. What a sight awaited me! I was spellbound to see the steps leading down to a small well with beautifully decorated walls. There are railings built recently to prevent the fall of people in their excitement to see this amazing structure. One gets the feeling of like we are entering deep into the bowels of the earth as this stepwells was at least four storeys below the ground level. We first decided to climb the parapet to reach the top and we were surprised to see a beautiful lake just behind these stepwells. The water from this lake has been enclosed to form this stepwell and the steps go down into the shrine of Lord Shiva. Just above the steps was the customary statue of Nandi, the bull who happens to the vehicle of Lord Shiva. This stepwell is rectangular in shape and was painted in bright colors. We climbed the steps down to the waterfront to reach the arch shaped entrance to the shrine. The priest had just come to perform the rituals for the deity and he informed us that this particular stepwells was built during the time of the Peshwas, the then rulers of Maharashtra in the 18'th century. The water from this stepwell is still used by the villagers to irrigate their fields and for performing rituals at the temple.
(Stepwells at the Balleshwar temple, near Jejuri)
After a quick breakfast of Misal Pav, the traditional and spicy dish of this region and some hot tea served in a small paper cup we were ready for our next destination. The incredibly beautiful Stepwells of Loni Bhapkar at Baramati was a sight to behold. These stepwells are constructed next to the Mallikarjun temple, another name of Lord Shiva. It is interesting to note that most of the Stepwells in Maharashtra is dedicated to Lord Shiva so on Shivratri many of these Stepwells are decorated with diyas, the traditional lamps. This place was so calm and serene that we spent a long time taking in the beauty of the place and the sculptures on the surrounding walls. This stepwell resembled the letter L and was wider and deeper than the previous one. This was walled up on all the sides and had a place at the side where one could sit after bath and offer prayers. This resting place had four beautifully carved pillars with a beautiful circular design on the ceiling. I could see the human figures carved in stone depicting musicians playing various instruments like the flute, veena or the trumpet. This was clean and to my amazement I found turtles swimming in the waters of the Stepwell. This place exuded calmness and serenity with shaded trees and it is a pity that few people actually pay a visit. I could almost mediate and went back in my mind to those days when the Kings and Rulers would have these Stepwells constructed to provide for water for the travelers or their armies. There was a signboard informing us the a there is a trust formed in 1717 , which helps to keep the Stepwells and the temple clean.
(Stepwells of Loni Bhapkar, Baramati)
Our last destination after a delicious lunch of bhakri and mutton rassa, the traditional fare of this region we headed off to Talegaon Dabhade past the Bopdev ghat. With the onset of monsoons the whole valley and the ghat area turns emerald green with whisps of soft clouds floating on the hills. We were eager to see the Stepwells of Ghumatachi vihar , which is on a private property where rows of bungalows are being constructed. Google map tried to direct us through the military camp but we were redirected by the guards to take another route which was muddy and broken and we had a bumpy ride next to a pond covered with lotus flowers. I was shocked to learn that they don't allow photography but after some cajoling and paying some small amount I was finally allowed to photograph this amazing structure. This stepwell was constructed next to an ancient and beautiful Shiva temple and was well maintained. They had covered the water body with a net to prevent dry leaves and twigs to fall into the water body. It was long and resembled the shape of a key when viewed from the top and extends down three storeys deep into the bowels of the earth till the water table. Like the previous ones this stepwell was also dedicated to Lord Shiva with a beautiful temple in the vicinity and a small shrine of Lord Shiva encased in the walls of the stepwells. The stepwell and the temple was surrounded by green lawns and beautiful blooms.
(Stepwells of Ghumtachi Vihar at Talegaon)
I was humbled to gaze at this amazing structures which make them engineering marvels of India and they are in existence since the Harrapan civilization which flourished in India in the Indus valley between 2500 to 1700 BC. These stepwells were built as the water storage systems and our forefathers knew the importance of water conservation and rain water harvesting since ancient times. The stepwells of Gujarat and Rajasthan had royal patronage while the ones in Maharashtra were more utilitarian in nature serving as water spots for travelers. As I research and travel for my art project I promise to bring to my readers more stories of such architectural marvels which has influenced the Vessel, a unique structure overlooking the Hudson river in New York city.
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